REVIEW: Inver

Inver Scotland (11)

“Is tha’ your wee dog there?” – a yell across the car park. It’s Pam Brunton, head chef at Inver arriving for the morning shift. “I’ve got to show her to ma’ chefs,” she says, crouching down to ruffle Tonka’s ears.

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Carbonara with garlic breadcrumbs

“What about Carbonara?” suggests Tom. “… with garlic bread?” It’s a balmy Sunday afternoon in London, toward the end of an unusually hot June. We were at a wedding last night. Due to antibiotic-induced teetotalism, there’s not a hangover in sight. Instead, Tom capitalised on the situation and saved on a taxi by driving us… 

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mackerel tomatoes

Mackerel with tomatoes, radish and tomatoes

“Mixed-Up Millennials” screams a press release, presumably written by a non-millennial. Oh Gawd, what have they done now? “Almost a third think bloaters are puffer fish,” it jeers. “Over a quarter think kippers are smoked mackerel [and] around half believe rock salmon is a type of salmon.” Fair enough. ‘Rock Salmon’ certainly sounds a lot… 

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Spinach, nutmeg & buttermilk quiche

First dog-walking class. I think that the puppy has a streak of the devil in her. It couldn’t come soon enough. Running late, so carry her to the class. It takes twice as long to walk anywhere. Put her down and she clamps her jaw round the lead trying to wrench it out of my… 

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Apricot and Cardamom Pavlova

I roasted the first apricots of this year, with dashes of butter and brown sugar. Summertime aromas filled the kitchen. They came out of the oven puckered and filled with the promise of concentrated flavour. I popped one into my mouth. So tart! All the sweetness had gone, and left behind a sharp, shrivelled carcass… 

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