Best meal of 2015: Ellory

Ellory exterior

I’ve come across some baffling menus recently. It throws up this recurring scene which plays in my mind. It begins with a one-arm bandit being wheeled into the kitchen one morning – a kind of gourmet fruit machine, which is put in charge of recipe development. The chefs gather round it, and pull the handle…… 

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Hurwundeki: lunch and a haircut

1. hurwundeki japche

On Tuesday morning it took me about 15 minutes to dry my hair. No enormous surprise, because it’d been over a year since it’d last been cut, and it had got long. Most people would simply think “I’ll ring my hairdressers and book an appointment.” But here lies my problem. When you only get your hair cut once a year, you don’t really have a regular hairdressers to go to…. 

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Tincan London

Tincan London restaurant

[First published in Fish on Friday. To read more about my Tincan experience, see this article in Munchies.]

Last week, a new restaurant launched in London’s Soho: Tincan. A restaurant selling only tinned seafood. No kitchen, no chef – just waiters to lift a pricy pilchard from its tin, and take it to the table. … 

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Le Lapin Rouge: A popup with panache

lapin menu

I’ve said it before, I’ll say it again. London’s supper club scene sometimes makes me sad.

Too many friends have acted on Time Out’s recommendation to spend £38 at Underground Dining – where you pay a premium for the pleasure of eating on a disused tube carriage. Booze isn’t included in the price, and it’s not BYOB. So once you’re there, the cost of a meal rockets to nearer £60.… 

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